Can't Lower Car w/ G-Bar System

[pokey64]

Originally Posted by frojoe

You wouldn't happen to have any pics of full compression with frame-to-axletube clearance, would you?

Thanks anyways for those pics tho!

Ride height. I never took any from the side this summer...


Clearnace with no gas tank and an empty trunk.




I haven't measured the clearance yet. I bulit my own exhaust pipes this spring. Tail pipes are on the list for this winter so I'm sure I'll be getting to know this area well.

[69x22]

If I had it to do over again, I would have went with the DSE rear suspensing. I have the same g-bar rear as Todd, 2000 miles, 1 autocross, 600 RWHP and small cracks in the same place. If you do run this set up, box it into your frame and tie it into the floor pan.

[Vegas69]

Originally Posted by 69x22

If I had it to do over again, I would have went with the DSE rear suspensing. I have the same g-bar rear as Todd, 2000 miles, 1 autocross, 600 RWHP and small cracks in the same place. If you do run this set up, box it into your frame and tie it into the floor pan.

Damn, your rails must have been weak or that babies digging. The new g link is way worse in my opinion. It's missing the front cross member in the cradle that we enjoy. One thing I found after going to a 10" spring with my G Bar, you need to be careful at full extension. The design of the alston shock will allow the spring collar to fall off the shock mount with no spring tension. I safety wired my spring collar to my shock mount. This will only be needed if you go fairly low with a 10" spring. No idea on the G Link but all you need to do is jack the car up and let the rear end droop to check.

Found a photo that shows what I'm tallking about. Notice the shock collar sitting on top of the spring. This is exaggerated but there will be about .25-.375 gap depending on ride height.

[Ron in SoCal]

^ My Strange (brand) shocks do the same thing. Freaked me out the first time I jacked up the car. Good idea w the safety wire Todd...

[Gandalf]

Originally Posted by Ron in SoCal

^ My Strange (brand) shocks do the same thing. Freaked me out the first time I jacked up the car. Good idea w the safety wire Todd...

I saw same on my Strange fronts and Varishock rears. One of the things I really like about swapping all 4 to the RideTech coilovers - the collar does not have that freak-you-out-might-fall-out notch. Plus with the built-in, tapered rubber "bumper" they just seem to find home everytime as well. (Can't tell you the number of times I've been working on the car and the previous setup would "click" back into place a minute after lowering the car - scarred the bejesus out of me lol!)

As Todd says - should not be an issue under most circumstances but the safety wire is a great idea for sure. Plus, it is my understanding that coilover spring adjustment is designed to be for pre-load, NOT ride-height adjustment but you will rarely see that behavior around here lol!

Gregg

[Vegas69]

My rear springs will support the car with 0 preload. I have changed over to a stiffer hypercoil spring. The 12" alston spring did need a bunch of pre load. You definitely don't want that collar popping on and off of the shock body. That won't lead to anything positive.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by Gandalf

I saw same on my Strange fronts and Varishock rears. One of the things I really like about swapping all 4 to the RideTech coilovers - the collar does not have that freak-you-out-might-fall-out notch. Plus with the built-in, tapered rubber "bumper" they just seem to find home everytime as well. (Can't tell you the number of times I've been working on the car and the previous setup would "click" back into place a minute after lowering the car - scarred the bejesus out of me lol!)

As Todd says - should not be an issue under most circumstances but the safety wire is a great idea for sure. Plus, it is my understanding that coilover spring adjustment is designed to be for pre-load, NOT ride-height adjustment but you will rarely see that behavior around here lol!

Gregg

You can get helper springs to take up the slack. They are made from flat stock have a very low spring rate and only decompress when the suspension is not loaded. Eibach makes them among others. You also need a collar that installs between the two springs. I had to use them on my Art Morrison subframe to get the ride height I wanted without worrying about the springs falling off the perch.

Here they are, the picture is not accurate:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EIB-HELPER250/

These are the collars:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EIB-SPACER250/

A pricey solution but one that guarantees safety.

Don

[DETON8R]

Originally Posted by 69x22

If I had it to do over again, I would have went with the DSE rear suspensing. I have the same g-bar rear as Todd, 2000 miles, 1 autocross, 600 RWHP and small cracks in the same place. If you do run this set up, box it into your frame and tie it into the floor pan.

Got photos of those cracks? Or do you have a better description where they showed up? Was it for a mini-tub application, or was it in the factory sheet metal/frame rail?

I'm installing a G-link for a mini-tub application and I'd like to see where I might need re-enforcements welded in. I will be running a roll bar and supports into the trunk to spread the load around, so I should have a little bit more strength into the rear end section of the car than a regular bolt-in/weld-in installation as Chassisworks recommends.

[69x22]

Originally Posted by DETON8R

Got photos of those cracks? Or do you have a better description where they showed up? Was it for a mini-tub application, or was it in the factory sheet metal/frame rail?

I'm installing a G-link for a mini-tub application and I'd like to see where I might need re-enforcements welded in. I will be running a roll bar and supports into the trunk to spread the load around, so I should have a little bit more strength into the rear end section of the car than a regular bolt-in/weld-in installation as Chassisworks recommends.

I don't have any pictures yet, the cracks are still hairline. I already had the cradle welded in and at the paint shop before I heard that this was happening, so I've been keeping a close eye on it. It is mini-tubbed, 4 point roll bar and the frame rails are the flawless originals. Once the Autorama is over with, I plan on addressing this problem. If you go to Vegas69 thread probably page 230 something, Todd has some pictures of his and another Camaro that this has happened to. In my opinion it is a flaw in the design that can easily be repaired, just sucks if your car is already done and the underside has nice paint on it.

[DETON8R]

Originally Posted by 69x22

I don't have any pictures yet, the cracks are still hairline. I already had the cradle welded in and at the paint shop before I heard that this was happening, so I've been keeping a close eye on it. It is mini-tubbed, 4 point roll bar and the frame rails are the flawless originals. Once the Autorama is over with, I plan on addressing this problem. If you go to Vegas69 thread probably page 230 something, Todd has some pictures of his and another Camaro that this has happened to. In my opinion it is a flaw in the design that can easily be repaired, just sucks if your car is already done and the underside has nice paint on it.

Thanks for pointing me to that photo. Thanks for that info. I've attached for others to see. I don't know that I'll knock my car around that hard, and I'll keep an eye on it when the car hits the road.