Can't Lower Car w/ G-Bar System

[Vegas69]

That's not mine but a g link failure. Mine was just cracked around all three sides.

[DETON8R]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

That's not mine but a g link failure. Mine was just cracked around all three sides.

Todd, Thanks for your input and comments on the subject. I've read through your problem description and fix, and it looks like you have had a chance to beat it pretty hard since the repair. Is the fix holding up?

I'll fab up some supports and have the shop weld them in when I get my G-link welded in.

I've wondered what might happen by cutting the rear of the car to get the mini-tubs in. Looks like we can get a few things to bend and break that weren't supposed to.

And 2,500 posts on your build thread, you are the man!!

[Rybar]

Originally Posted by 67XR7

wow it does look like you get the same amount of lower mounting holes either way. the pictures i looked at showed about 3 different positions with a fab 9 and only 1 with the bolt on lower arms. must be old pics.

I just googled these pics and I think they are from Franks album. I'll see if I can find some showing my setup.

Originally Posted by 69x22

If I had it to do over again, I would have went with the DSE rear suspensing. I have the same g-bar rear as Todd, 2000 miles, 1 autocross, 600 RWHP and small cracks in the same place. If you do run this set up, box it into your frame and tie it into the floor pan.

I'd have to agree with you Tony, I bet a good chunk of these G-bars and G-Links were sold by Frank and they aren't as fully tested as DSE suspensions. Although the Ridetech Airbar is the same layout as Todd and Tony's G-bar. Haven't heard much issues on their end.

Here's a photo where mine sits now, with the shorter springs.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by pokey64

Ride height. I never took any from the side this summer...


Clearnace with no gas tank and an empty trunk.




I haven't measured the clearance yet. I bulit my own exhaust pipes this spring. Tail pipes are on the list for this winter so I'm sure I'll be getting to know this area well.

what are the weights on your current springs Ed? Might come down a bunch when you get the tank and stuff in. You can go to a shorter spring, it will put your adjuster nut mid shock.

[pokey64]

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab

what are the weights on your current springs Ed? Might come down a bunch when you get the tank and stuff in. You can go to a shorter spring, it will put your adjuster nut mid shock.

Vince,
They're 12 200s now. I took a quick cell pic this morning of ride height with tank. I still need to throw some weight in the trunk to account for a sub box and full spare that Beth wants. We put around 300 miles on it this summer so it should be settled. I would like to get the tire tucked a bit so I'll probably be looking at shorter springs.

Todd,
Good info on what to watch on shorter Springs.

[Vegas69]

I actually safety wired my spring to the shock mount. That keeps the shock collar up against the shock mount. I fastened both twice.

[frojoe]

pokey64... are those 17" rims? Look forward to any measurements you can grab when you start to "intimately familiarize yourself" with the area while making tailpipes!

[pokey64]

Originally Posted by frojoe

pokey64... are those 17" rims? Look forward to any measurements you can grab when you start to "intimately familiarize yourself" with the area while making tailpipes!

Yep, 17s. I will let you know what I find out.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by pokey64

Vince,
They're 12 200s now. I took a quick cell pic this morning of ride height with tank. I still need to throw some weight in the trunk to account for a sub box and full spare that Beth wants. We put around 300 miles on it this summer so it should be settled. I would like to get the tire tucked a bit so I'll probably be looking at shorter springs.

Todd,
Good info on what to watch on shorter Springs.

I'd get full weight and a few miles on them before you make the changes. But before switching to a shorter spring try a 150# or 175# 12" spring you should get a bit more compression out of it and still maintain a good ride.

[frojoe]

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab

I'd get full weight and a few miles on them before you make the changes. But before switching to a shorter spring try a 150# or 175# 12" spring you should get a bit more compression out of it and still maintain a good ride.

I agree.. also measure the eye-to-eye of the shock when the springs have been broken in, or at least with some added weight in the trunk to simulate the sub box, full tank, etx. I believe the shocks are supposed to be 13.5" i2i at normal ride height leaving about 2.5" for bump travel and 2.5" for rebound travel.

If the spring is broken in and the i2i measurement is ~13.5" with normal weight on the 200lb/in springs, I don't think shorter springs or lighter weight springs would be the answer.

Lighter weight spring would be taking the same coilover but asking it to sit deeper into it's travel at regular ride height, so i might have 2" of bump travel and 4" of rebound travel, and on top of that the reduced stiffness of the spring will allow the shock to come that much closer & that much easier to bottoming out over a same bump for a heavier rate spring.

To use a shorter spring, the spring rate would have to go up (to keep same ride quality and 13.5" i2i) or else say a 10" or even 8" spring (to exaggerate) might coil-bind under full compression on the same 5"-travel shock body.

Really the ideal way to lower the rear end even more would be to get an overall-shorter-bodied coilover that maintains the same 5" travel (VariShock is 16.10", Koni is 16.10", Ridetech is ~15.9".. hard to find any shorter), to get a shorter-travel coilover with stiffer spring (due to reduced bump travel, at a sacrifice of ride quality), or to either lower the axle-side coilover mount or raise the framerail/body-side coilover mount.