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  #321  
Old 07-23-2012, 02:01 PM
Steve68 Steve68 is offline
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You sir are a mad man, but, you are doing it right!!! what kind of epoxy you using??
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  #322  
Old 07-23-2012, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve68 View Post
You sir are a mad man, but, you are doing it right!!! what kind of epoxy you using??
Thanks ... gotta do it right or not at all!

I am using an epoxy primer called Finish 1 under Acme label which is made by Martin Senour and sold through NAPA, really good stuff w/o paying for a label if you know what I mean. If it's good enough for Steve Davis' (president of Barrett Jackson) 64 Ford Fairlane it's good enough for little ol me.

Got the first coat of POR15 on the inners and just waiting for the second coat.
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Last edited by Sonar Chief; 07-23-2012 at 08:39 PM.
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  #323  
Old 07-23-2012, 08:26 PM
Roberts68 Roberts68 is offline
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What sort of wait time do you find works well between coats?
I picked up some POR15 recently partly because of the inspiring work you are doing here and sharing with us.
I'm going to start with my floor pans prior to Eastwoods' thermo-coustic barrier. They aren't rusty but I will be exposing a lot of metal and want a brush on product.
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  #324  
Old 07-23-2012, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Roberts68 View Post
What sort of wait time do you find works well between coats?
I picked up some POR15 recently partly because of the inspiring work you are doing here and sharing with us.
I'm going to start with my floor pans prior to Eastwoods' thermo-coustic barrier. They aren't rusty but I will be exposing a lot of metal and want a brush on product.
I was just out in the garage putting on the second coat of POR15 on my inner fenders and it was just tacky at 3 hours since the first, I'll let it dry overnight and then I can scuff the POR sections and top coat with POR black and she should be good for another 45 years

If you plan to do your floor pans I would break up the pans into quarter sections and do just a section both coats and then move to another section after that one dries .... just so you know you got coverage and you're not missing anything. If you had another color you could change colors and that is a sure sign that you got everything covered. That is why I use silver and then top with chassis black POR ... just a thought!
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  #325  
Old 07-29-2012, 11:06 AM
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Thumbs up 7/29 Update

Had a couple hours in the garage to get the inner fender welded back to OEM without the rust!

This is what a little TLC and a couple hours can do to refurb your inner fender wells. Hopefully I can get back out in the garage later and start on the other inner ... same rust spots and it needs a patch welded in the corner.


Plug welding with a copper backing!


Ditto


Much better than before

Still need to finish welding some of the holes and then touch up with POR over the welds and she'll be done .... one down one to go

Thanks for looking...
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  #326  
Old 07-29-2012, 11:45 AM
makoshark makoshark is offline
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it's better to say something now before you get into structural parts of the car, your welds do not look good
It's hard to tell without being there in person, but the welds either look as if you do not have enough wire speed, not enough gas or the metal isn't cleaned well enough. Also, you ground too much metal away when you ground down the welds. On the photo of the ground welds, you can see you did not get penetration into the surrounding metal. It doesn't look as if you are using the proper technique for rosette welds, as well as the what I mentioned above.
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  #327  
Old 07-29-2012, 12:23 PM
makoshark makoshark is offline
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Rosette welds should look like this...
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  #328  
Old 07-29-2012, 12:38 PM
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Wow--just went through your entire build thread. Huge amount of effort you've put in. Must be a great feeling to be able to do all this type of work on your own. I really admire the effort--will keep watching to see it come together. I love the "Just keep moving forward" approach. Great work bro!

Doug
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  #329  
Old 07-29-2012, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makoshark View Post
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it's better to say something now before you get into structural parts of the car, your welds do not look good
It's hard to tell without being there in person, but the welds either look as if you do not have enough wire speed, not enough gas or the metal isn't cleaned well enough. Also, you ground too much metal away when you ground down the welds. On the photo of the ground welds, you can see you did not get penetration into the surrounding metal. It doesn't look as if you are using the proper technique for rosette welds, as well as the what I mentioned above.
I see what you are looking at with the welds ... the first pix is the only one with rosette welds! The last two are the back of the plug welds (with a copper backer) to fill in the drilled holes when I removed the panel from the other panel .... make sense? I then welded to this plug from the top panel.

I assure you I will finish the back of the plug welds with some heat before I call it done.
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  #330  
Old 07-29-2012, 05:28 PM
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Maybe I should not have posted a between shot of the inners .... but that was good that Jeremy said my welds look like sh$t, that means a lot to me THANKS

Started with a 1/4" hole (drill bit size) undercut the welds and put a 3/8" rosette weld on the top and finished the welds, looks like this now

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