Chad's 68 Camaro V3.0 build. LS3 & TCI goodies

[GregWeld]

I wouldn't just re-tap the aluminum hole... I'd go with a HeliCoil if you have decent access to it.

My old rule is do it right the first time -- and then you don't have to worry about it forever and ever.

Sorry you're having these issues!

[Chad-1stGen]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

I wouldn't just re-tap the aluminum hole... I'd go with a HeliCoil if you have decent access to it.

My old rule is do it right the first time -- and then you don't have to worry about it forever and ever.

Sorry you're having these issues!

Thanks Greg. I've got until at least Tuesday before the clutch and flywheel will be ready. At first I had a bit of "sticker shock" at the turnaround time but then realized I've got PLENTY of other stuff to work on lol! I plan on spending some of that time checking all the threads on the motor as well as pulling the pan so I can check the oil tube o-ring.

[67zo6Camaro]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

I wouldn't just re-tap the aluminum hole... I'd go with a HeliCoil if you have decent access to it.

My old rule is do it right the first time -- and then you don't have to worry about it forever and ever.

Sorry you're having these issues!

HeliCoil ? the only ones Im familiar with are the spriral type, Which is actually just putting a wound up piece of wire in the hole to make up the difference in the thread gap. Am I thinking of something different? because those work like shiat.

FYI, my advise to re-tap actually means drill larger hole and... well re-tap to the next size. It's basically the same as a new hole, just bigger. I don't recommend re-tapping to the next size by just the means of putting a larger tap in the stripped hole.

Anyway, got any pictures of the HeliCoil system you are talking about?

[GregWeld]

Yeah -- HeliCoil is a "thread repair".... not a complete drill and re tap.

I've had great success with the several that I've used and keep them "in stock" in the shed for those occasions when they need to be used. Never once had an issue with them.

The problem for most guys ----- he's drilling into the block not just running a drill through a bellhousing hole.... and he won't have a bottoming tap... and access might be an issue etc.

[rsk68]

In aluminum helicoils inserted correctly are as strong as threads with no helicoils , they are designed for holes that will see repeated dis assembly, you can buy a helicoil repair kit for any size hole from mcmaster Carr delivered next day!

[Chad-1stGen]

Mini update from work over the weekend.

I got the oil pan off the motor. Decided it was easier to take the hood off and hoist the motor up a few inches than drop the rack. However, my confidence in the cheap/easy fix is shaken. The oil pump pick up tube o-ring looked to be in perfect shape and installed correctly. Just to be on the safe side I picked up two new o-rings from the dealer on the way to work this morning.

GM makes 3 different sized o-rings. My online reading has shown that all of the oil pumps are the same size but that the pick up tube itself has different sizes and you match the o-ring to the pick up.

Stolen from a 2009 Ls1tech.com post:

They are color coded for a reason, like stated above, if the pickup tube has a recessed area where the o-ring goes you need the thicker RED o-ring. The trucks use this design.

GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (1st Design)
12557752

BLUE SEAL
Specifics:

* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8) 1st design
* F-Body (1998-2002)
* Cadillac CTS-V (2004-2007)
* Corvette (1997-2008)
* Thickness = 3.55mm (0.140")
ID = 23.60mm (0.930")



GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (2nd Design)
12584922

RED SEAL
Specifics:

* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8 engines with 2nd design pick-up tube)
* Trailblazer (2003-2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Hummer H2 (2003-2008)
* Hummer H3 (2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (2001-2008 LS V8 engines)
* W- Body (2006-2008 With LS V8 engine - Impala, Lacrosse, Grand Prix)
* Thickness = 4.20mm (0.165")
ID = 20.69mm (0.815")

The green I believe is even thicker than the red design but can't find those specs right now.

My Autokraft pan came with the blue o-ring but I bought both a blue and red o-ring today at the dealer. The fit with the blue o-ring that came with my pan just doesn't feel that snug when playing around with it this weekend. So tonight I will try both the red and blue o-ring. My online research showed some folks and shops/dealers using the red o-ring even in fbody/corvette applications with better success rates.

[Mkelcy]

Originally Posted by Chad-1stGen

Mini update from work over the weekend.

I got the oil pan off the motor. Decided it was easier to take the hood off and hoist the motor up a few inches than drop the rack. However, my confidence in the cheap/easy fix is shaken. The oil pump pick up tube o-ring looked to be in perfect shape and installed correctly. Just to be on the safe side I picked up two new o-rings from the dealer on the way to work this morning.

GM makes 3 different sized o-rings. My online reading has shown that all of the oil pumps are the same size but that the pick up tube itself has different sizes and you match the o-ring to the pick up.

Stolen from a 2009 Ls1tech.com post:


The green I believe is even thicker than the red design but can't find those specs right now.

My Autokraft pan came with the blue o-ring but I bought both a blue and red o-ring today at the dealer. The fit with the blue o-ring that came with my pan just doesn't feel that snug when playing around with it this weekend. So tonight I will try both the red and blue o-ring. My online research showed some folks and shops/dealers using the red o-ring even in fbody/corvette applications with better success rates.

Copied and saved in my LS Info file. Thanks.

[Mkelcy]

So, no posts because fabulous progress ; or no posts because in the abyss of depression?