There's a company that makes really nice large gauge wire called "Arctic Ultraflex Blue" made by Polar Wire (http://www.polarwire.com/) that uses higher quantities of smaller strand wire and a special jacket to make remarkably flexible wire given it's size. It makes routing much easier and the stuff is really nice to work with if not a bit spendy. I learned about it when researching a rear mounted winch my my early Bronco.
Tobin
Did you buy 100' of it? I don't see smaller lengths.
I used the DSE cables.....very high quality and small strand. Seem plenty flexible. Last place to cut corners is on battery cables. Especially when you are running them the length of the car.
i got a small roll from a guy that works on the railroad... the diameter of teh copper is atleast 1/2 inch!! and the quality is top notch... welding ground wier also works great, and can be found cheap on metal scrap yards.. i buy it by the pound for the going rate of the copper scrap
__________________
Elwood:We're 105 miles from Chicago, we have a full tank of gas, half pack of cigarettes, it's dark out and we're wearing sunglasses.
Jake: Hit it.
Grounded to engine here too. Especially on a modern engine with FI &
ignition controls. Mine is 01 fine strand in car to a proper bulkhead connector.
(a must) & the ground is strap bolted through trunk to 01 routed along framerail into trans tunnel to back of head.
My + is in the sill just like tail light harness on the driver side.
With a little extra effort, the positive cable can generally be run through the factory sill trough, passenger side is easiest since there are no other wires there, most guys mount the batt on the passenger side & the starter is also on the pass side. This makes things a lot cleaner when laying the carpet & installing he upholstery. **definitely suggest a master fuse of some sort, like AAW
In the last few FI cars we've built, we didn't run a ground all the way to the front. We ground the battery to the trunk floor @ the wheelwell & ground the batt directly to the frame rail in the rear. Multiple ground straps up front (engine to frame, frame to body, engine to body) will do the trick. We ALWAYS weld subframe connectors in, so the rear framerail ground coincidentally ties in through the frame rails to the front.
Firewall bulkhead is the way to go.....consider a quality audio distribution block in the pass compartment to tie in additional leads: stereo, power window relays, HID lights....
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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